Archive for the ‘pattern’ Category

Custom Corset

Friday, March 26th, 2010
corset_front

I’ve been working on making my own corset for months. There were some odd issues but the end result is pretty awesome. Big thing is the couple of shortcuts I took worked perfectly and didn’t cause any issues. I used hook and eye tape in place of a corset busk and amazingly it held. Second, I used plastic duct ties in place of metal boning. They are a little bulky but strong enough and I can actually sit comfortably in this without it deforming. The cheap boning in a store bought corset bunches bends and twists when you sit. To make this worse the heat of the body sets those kinks in so the corset won’t lay properly and stabs you. So far no issues with this plastic. Also I have to be careful not to tighten it too much as I easily could without it being uncomfortable (I’m not a tight lacer).

I used a slightly altered version of Butterick pattern 4254. Big change I added a couple inches over the bust to be able to wear it as outerwear.  You can see in the photos the inch wasn’t enough so I had to wear something under it. If you want to make this as outerwear I’d suggest adding at least 3 inches and cutting it to the desired level just before inserting the boning and binding the top. Definitely make sure you can raise your arms over your head safely at the level you are going to cut it to.

cora

I decided to wear it for a punk sexy character I’m playing. I am actually sporting a faux hawk here which is high fashion long hair mohawk. I’ll try to get you a shot of that next. In the long run this outfit will add bits of tech so it can go cyber punk.

Simplicity – a Pattern of Drama

Saturday, October 17th, 2009

I love Simplicity patterns… or at least the pictures on the pattern envelopes. Almost every time I have made one of their patterns it has been a size or two to large making the size my measurements have dictated. I have heard this is because the bust measurement they use is actually above the bust but some patterns have the size issue and some don’t. Generally I’ve found more fitted things like belly dance costumes and corsets will fit but I’ve also heard of some adding ease (extra material for comfort) to these as well. A corset in particular should not really have ease.

Simplicity has the very best selection of costume patterns on the market so certainly use them but always make a rough version in cheap fabric first. You can also measure the pattern but that’s a bit tricky. However you do it, making some attempt to assure a garment will fit before you cut expensive fabric is always recommended and especially so with simplicity patterns. It is extra time and effort but without it you may end up with a garment you’ll never wear.

dress1web

dress2web

I picked this simplicity pattern (8587) figuring being a pauper would be a good but cheap renaissance outfit. Sadly, I found myself swimming in the finished garment particularly the vest. I’d describe the result as having the fit of a Halloween store costume. If I’m going to take the time to make something I expect more than that. For this reason, I’ve been studying fitting and pattern making which may be the only way to get a proper fit in this stretchy t-shirt world.