Costuming Essentials

I’ve been working on making my own corset for months. There were some odd issues but the end result is pretty awesome. Big thing is the couple of shortcuts I took worked perfectly and didn’t cause any issues. I used hook and eye tape in place of a corset busk and amazingly it held. Second, I used plastic duct ties in place of metal boning. They are a little bulky but strong enough and I can actually sit comfortably in this without it deforming. The cheap boning in a store bought corset bunches bends and twists when you sit. To make this worse the heat of the body sets those kinks in so the corset won’t lay properly and stabs you. So far no issues with this plastic. Also I have to be careful not to tighten it too much as I easily could without it being uncomfortable (I’m not a tight lacer).

I used a slightly altered version of Butterick pattern 4254. Big change I added a couple inches over the bust to be able to wear it as outerwear.  You can see in the photos the inch wasn’t enough so I had to wear something under it. If you want to make this as outerwear I’d suggest adding at least 3 inches and cutting it to the desired level just before inserting the boning and binding the top. Definitely make sure you can raise your arms over your head safely at the level you are going to cut it to.

I decided to wear it for a punk sexy character I’m playing. I am actually sporting a faux hawk here which is high fashion long hair mohawk. I’ll try to get you a shot of that next. In the long run this outfit will add bits of tech so it can go cyber punk.

Sometimes the big costume just isn’t necessary. Especially when dealing with a tight budget, its important to consider the effect you are going for and how to simply but clearly get it across. Often accessories are extremely helpful in conveying an idea. A pair of dark glasses and a scarf can transform you into an incognito celebrity. The scarf pictured here I have used for everything from dance prop to belt to head piece. In this photo it and my attitude are the entire costume.

Even elaborate costumes are lent greater realism by the right accessories. A costume is a complete thing where all of it works together to give a message. The wrong or missing accessory can completely spoil a look. A ball gown combined with tennis shoes will throw off perceptions.

Choose your accessories with as much care as any costume and perhaps even more. If an accessory can be used for multiple costumes or even better in your everyday life, it is quite the find. If it can’t, even if it’s perfect, consider how much use you will get out of it and if it’s really needed. Also consider if it’s a usuable item or something that just fits the costume. I’ve bought hand bags to go with costumes before but 90% of the time the bag is immediately put down somewhere because it interferes with interaction. This goes for cloaks and outerwear too. There are reasons for things like that such as scripted props or photoshoots but without a specific reason if it’s going to be an encumberance to your costume think twice.

Unlike vintage shopping where things are already weeded down for you thrift shopping is inevitably hit or miss. I’ve gone and shopped for hours to find nothing I wanted for costuming or otherwise. The prices, variety of things and tested quality always keep me coming back. (by tested quality I mean the things have been washed and materials that are poor and look old after a few washings are already looking scuzzy). When I find something the effort is worth it. A few amazing finds that come to mind are a burburry designer skirt, a green velvet cloak that is entirely custom made and of extremely nice quality and finishing and… a cat suit. I tried the cat suit on for laughs but it actually looked so nice at $3 that I bought it. I’ve used it for sci fish costuming or if I really needed a jaw dropping costume.

I’ve been sketching ideas for out there cyber punk looks. I want to incorporate unexpected materials. Could screws and circuits replace diamonds? Could light sockets and black plastic tubing combine into a truly couture and high fashion look? Can I convince my dad to let me raid his workshop for supplies? Only time will tell what I’ll make and only imagination and budget are limitations.

This year I made an awesome costume for a good friend of mine (hopefully there will be pictures later) rather than focusing on what I was going to wear. I’ve thrown together something for myself (which there may be be pictures of later) but it doesn’t compare to the last costume I made just for Halloween, a few years ago.

I had the idea of going as a slightly Grecian tribal priestess. The costume  was actually my first experiment in draping. I basically just worked out how to make it with knots and laying it over myself. What really makes the look are the furs, feathers, shells and thorns.

This sort of costume is very easy and frugal. Most of it was items I just had sitting around like shell necklaces from Hawaii. The fabric was just scraps that couldn’t have cost more then $5. The fur pieces were things I had gotten at Renaissance fairs and probably the most expensive part at $15. However, they are reusable for many costume ideas. My favorite bit is a necklace I had made stringing thorns off a rose bush. It was too painful to wear as a necklace but I wore it dangling off the top. Additionally, I wore a shell and straw necklace I picked up at a swap meet for $3 which was the only thing I actually bought specifically for the costume.

Even with a closet full of clothes it’s still possible to have nothing to wear. You want to wear something exciting and new. Usually Halloween is easy because you can’t wear a costume very often.

For me this isn’t true. I am involved in live action roleplaying which is sort of like improv theater so 4 days out of each month I can dress up in some sort of costume. It’s great as its’ a reason to make and wear my creations but it also makes it harder to wow people on Halloween.

This year I looked through my closet and looked again trying to pick out something. Everything had been done and done again. Finally, I went with comfy, well made and sort of costume like. Watching movies with a small group of friends sadly does not warrant a ball gown…

I love designing costumes for others. It pushes me to think in new ways and explore new techniques. I would never have even considered making something like the above photo for myself but it looks lovely blowing in the wind across the playa at burning man.

The entire coat is crazy quilted from pieces of old Hawaiian shirts. Up close you can see the zigzag stitching and extreme clash of colors and values. His goal was for it to be as gaudy and jarring as possible. The top is a copy of a Hawaiian shirt that I made a pattern from and then used flat patterning and pattern drafting techniques to turn into a voluminous coat. Copying a readymade garment and using it as what is known as a block or sloper from which to make style changes without losing the old garments fit is one of my favorite techniques. It is extremely effective and easier then starting totally from scratch.

Some holidays aren’t obvious choices for costuming. In mid June this year when I found this flag fabric for $1.50 a yard I was immediately inspired to make a dress to wear for the 4th of July. A fun and bold outfit for only about $5 was an irresitable prospect.

I decided to drape the dress right on my dress form in the fabric (ala Project Runway). I’ve had my dress form about a year but haven’t had the time to use it much. However, at $5 what did I have to lose? The end result is just lovely especially given it was a first try at making such a thing without a pattern.

Just got the pictures back from my talk on costuming at the Shadows Anime convention! I’ve seen lots of pictures of people giving presentations but somehow its more fun in costume!

I love Simplicity patterns… or at least the pictures on the pattern envelopes. Almost every time I have made one of their patterns it has been a size or two to large making the size my measurements have dictated. I have heard this is because the bust measurement they use is actually above the bust but some patterns have the size issue and some don’t. Generally I’ve found more fitted things like belly dance costumes and corsets will fit but I’ve also heard of some adding ease (extra material for comfort) to these as well. A corset in particular should not really have ease.

Simplicity has the very best selection of costume patterns on the market so certainly use them but always make a rough version in cheap fabric first. You can also measure the pattern but that’s a bit tricky. However you do it, making some attempt to assure a garment will fit before you cut expensive fabric is always recommended and especially so with simplicity patterns. It is extra time and effort but without it you may end up with a garment you’ll never wear.

I picked this simplicity pattern (8587) figuring being a pauper would be a good but cheap renaissance outfit. Sadly, I found myself swimming in the finished garment particularly the vest. I’d describe the result as having the fit of a Halloween store costume. If I’m going to take the time to make something I expect more than that. For this reason, I’ve been studying fitting and pattern making which may be the only way to get a proper fit in this stretchy t-shirt world.